Watershed's Fried Chicken & Biscuits

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For a forthcoming article on fried chicken (to be published in the October 2012 issue of Epicure), I've been eating a lot of it. It really is research, and also a good excuse to forgo dieting.

Ask any serious foodie where to get fried chicken in Atlanta, and the answer is bound to include Watershed on Peachtree. The renowned dish is only available on Wednesdays. Hard to believe, but I'd never had Watershed's fried chicken until last week. I have no idea how I'd gone 15 years without it. (In my defense, the restaurant was closed for awhile to relocate...I realize that is a poor excuse.)

The couple seated at the table next to me shared that they were visiting from out of town and had eaten lunch at the restaurant the previous day. They'd LOVED it, heard about fried chicken night and were back. Theirs is the more appropriate response.

The chicken must be whisked from fryer to table in record time because it's served hot. It's crispy, juicy and worthy of its reputation. The biscuits are crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside.


Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

The mashed potatoes were the BEST mashed potatoes I've ever had in my life. There's a risk to ordering them: You'll probably leave the restaurant with a red forehead. Here's how it happens:

Step 1: You take a bite and, as soon as the fork slides out of your mouth and they coat your tongue, you realize these are the gosh-darn best mashed potatoes on earth.

Step 2: You wonder why yours are never that good, despite the fact that you've made mashed potatoes many times and the recipe for mashed potatoes is so simple that it was one of the first things you learned to make.

Step 3: You realize that you will be making mashed potatoes for Thanksgiving. And they will never be that good.

Step 4: You fall against the table in self-disgust.

Step 5: Whack. Red forehead.

I don't even want to know how much butter or cream is in that individual serving of mashed potatoes, but the results are fantastic. Don't even think you'll want to share them. If your dining companion wants a bite, better order two.

For dessert, celebrate or console yourself as suits the situation with the salted caramel milk cake. The recipe is from the grandmother of one of the chefs (not Chef Joe Truex, but one of the other chefs in that busy kitchen). It's the perfect end to a great meal.

Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Bottom Line:An Atlanta institution that lives up to the hype.

Gevalia's Velvet Noir

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If dark coffee with no bitter aftertaste is what you crave in your cup, then give Gevalia's Velvet Noir a try.

Made of Arabica beans, Velvet Noir lives up to the promise of its name: It's full bodied, dark, smooth and delicious.

From intense dark roasts to exotic varietals, Gevalia offers over 40 premium coffees. If you're dissatisfied with the selection at your local store--whether you prefer java with or without caffeine, favor whole beans or ground--ordering online with Gevalia can significantly expand your options.

SRP: $6.99

Bottom Line: Thumbs up.

Brunch at STG Trattoria

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The new STG Trattoria proves that a satisfying Sunday brunch doesn't have to mean buffet.

Here guests are invited to choose among the mouth-watering list of temptations on the menu of eggs, plates (including salads and sandwiches) and pizzas. Serving sizes are satisfying yet not over-indulgent.

We tried the oven roasted duck hash with poached farm egg and arugula ($10; pictured top) and oven baked eggs with prosciutto and sausage bolognese, white beans ($9). Both were delicious and far more upscale than what we would have prepared at home ourselves.

Bottom Line:Tasty Sunday treat, fairly priced.

Insider's Tip: If you want a mimosa or other adult libation, arrive 12:30 p.m. or later; Georgia state law prohibits alcohol service before that time.

Wrecking Bar Brewpub

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A recent first visit to the Wrecking Bar Brewpub had me wondering how I'd not come to this place sooner. It's just the sort of place we tend to seek out, with a casual friendly vibe, hearty food and fresh beers brewed on site.

Some pubs feel imported, but this one feels very organic to the neighborhood....in no small part since it's housed in an historic building.

On a first visit, try the beer sampler to get acquainted with the options. You'll then know which is your favorite for future visits--though you will likely also be tempted to try the seasonal brews.

The menu includes beer-friendly favorites like hamburgers, sausages, BBQ, grilled cheese, steak frites as well as creative options (including a secret salad not on the menu but available to those in the know. Ask about it.)

Bottom Line:Fun atmosphere in which to try some unique on-site brews. Enjoy the Oktoberfest spirit any time of year.

Flight Night at SOHO

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Every Wednesday is "Flight Night" at SOHO, when wine explorers are invited to sample three wines from featured appellations and regions around the world.The theme and wines showcased changes each week. On a recent visit three wines from the Pacific Northwest were featured:

* Elk Cove Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2011 -- 100% Pinot Gris, this lovely white wine is crisp with vibrant citrus flavors and aromas

* Steele Shooting Star Blue France 2009 -- 100% Lemberger, this delicious wine boasts notes of berry pie, almond, berry and cinnamon

* Alexandria Nicole Quarry Butte "Horse Heaven Hills" 2009 -- A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malbeck and Petit Verdot, this wine is packed with flavors of stewed berries, herbs, leather and a bit of toast

Each three-ounce portion of wine can be paired with specially-selected tapas. Go for it and order all three, as it's a great way to test a wine's food-friendliness, sample the restaurant's offerings and enjoy a casual three-course meal.

Can't make it on Wednesday? No worries! While wine flights debut on Wednesdays, they are available through the following Tuesday (while supplies last), which means you have all week to try the featured wines and tapas.
 
Bottom Line: A good time for a good deal.

The Lawrence

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Except for its street side wall of sparkling clean windows, stepping into The Lawrence feels like stepping into a speakeasy. The small dining room is dominated by a wooden bar with an old-timey feel and several chalkboards list some of the scrumptious cocktails (many classics with a twist) that skilled bartenders stand ready to prepare using high-quality ingredients. Though the kitchen is open, it's tucked behind a coffee stand as if food is the afterthought to beverages. But fret not--the kitchen delivers dishes just as skillfully prepared as the drinks.

Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

The Lawrence serves dinner and Sunday brunch. We tested some menu items served at both times. The fancy presentations and creative flavor pairings wow.

Executive Chef Shane Devereux, from Coatesville Pennsylvania, trained in Philadelphia with a culinary emphasis in French cuisine.

Brussels sprouts salad ($8) with bacon, fennel, frisee and orange vin:

Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Poached seckle pear ($9) with burrata, cracker, quince mustardo:

Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

I couldn't help but overhear a girl at the neighboring table inform her dining companions that The Lawrence is where everybody knows her name. Sunday brunch was, she reported, the third time she'd dined at the place that week. With high-quality food and drinks available at surprisingly moderate prices, served by friendly folks in comfortable surrounds, its no wonder.

Bottom Line:Treat your taste buds at this cozy place.

Article 14

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Article 14 is now open at the street level in the space that formerly housed Trois. Sister restaurant The Olmsted is upstairs, and while that second floor space is open only for lunch, down here you can enjoy lunch and dinner during the week (or dinners on Saturdays and Sundays).

The designer pulls off an impressive feat of making the place feel swanky yet relaxed at the same time. A large bar helps set the mood, as if to say "Yes, folks might stop here after work in their fancy suits, but it's time to relax over a delicious adult beverage." The cocktail list features creative combinations of inviting flavors.

Both these drinks were tasty, but The Kentucky Rose (pictured right), a bourbon-based cocktail, gets our most hearty praise.
Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Salad of mixed baby lettuces, candied pecans, spice-roasted pears, Sweetgrass Dairy's lil mo, and classic vinaigrette ($8)
Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Shrimp and crab cake amuse bouche
Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

The friendly staffers seem genuinely excited about theplace.
Dining alone? Read the menu: Finding all the various playfulinterpretations of "Article 14" can provide easy entertainment.  I couldn't help but overhear a couple at a nearby table as they gleefully told their server that it was their second visit to the restaurant this week--hearty endorsement of a place so newly open.
Bottom Line:The verdict: Thumbs up.