The Spence

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Last night we went to check out The Spence, the newest restaurant of Chef Richard Blais, of Top Chef: All Stars winning fame. Of course, he was well-known in Atlanta long before that show.

If you know that "spence" is a word for pantry, then the key symbol on the menu cover is a visual cue of what's in store. Chef Blais is throwing open his pantry and cooking whatever inspires him each day. With a bit of whimsical fun, the top of the menu lists "things that inspire us, for today at least..." featuring fresh deliveries or music or special guests or Twitter plugs, or quite literally whatever.

That said, the dishes that we tried may or may not be available on the day that you arrive for lunch or dinner. But no matter, odds are you'll find something tempting to nibble or feast upon.

The menu offers several small plates--what our server called "Scooby snacks"--and a few entrees. There are also a very limited number of "family meal" dinner plates available at special low rates--they're whatever remains after the staff is fed prior to dinner service (essentially leftovers, changing daily, of course). Last night after we were seated at 6:30 p.m. we were told there was just one family meal left; steak and sides for $7. Such plates will obviously not last until late into the evening, and once word gets out among savvy Georgia Tech diners they'll disappear long before 6:30 p.m. So if good food for cheap is your goal, arrive early.

In order to taste more of the menu, we opted to share several small plates and split one entree. First out was the shredded kale "caesar" ($7) and corned lamb tostadas and guajillo salsa ($9). Double yum. I'm kicking myself that I'd never thought of using garlicky caesar dressing with kale, it's a perfect combo. I could have devoured the whole plate of the tostadas, but was kind enough to share with Dean. They had an interesting floral quality; I couldn't quite figure out what ingredient contributed that particular flavor note but it was tasty.

Photo Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Next up was a bowl of porcini noodles, oxtail, egg and truffle ($14). In a word: Divine. I hope to see this on the menu again when the weather turns cooler, it's like autumn in a bowl...though I wouldn't pass up a bite on a hot day either. Too often truffle overpowers other flavors in a dish, not so with this.

A huge creme brulee fan, had my niece Shannon been in town she would have adored this corn creme brulee ($6). Why wait until dessert with so creative a side?

Photo Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

While reviewing the menu with us, our server had mentioned that the "Juicy Lucy" with thrice cooked steak fries ($14) has so far proven to be the most popular entree option. He also said it's based on the burger with cheese inside that's famous in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

First off, let me just explain that I lived in the Twin Cities metro area of Minnesota for nearly 20 years, from the middle of 8th grade through 1997. Dean was born and raised in Minnesota. We both still have family there. Neither of us had ever heard of a "Juicy Lucy" until last night. Perhaps it was invented and gained notoriety after we left. If so, and if it in any way resembles this burger, it is the most fantastic cuisine to be found on any menu in Minnesota.

"It's true microgastronomy," said Chef Blais. Apparently, keeping the cheese sealed inside the burger throughout the cooking process involves a skilled level of craftiness that is right up his alley. The cheese oozes out when you cut the burger in half (if sharing) or bite into it, but it arrives with the treat concealed inside.

Photo Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

The fries are thick, which makes sense given that they need to stand up to three dips into frying oil, each a different type (one is duck fat, I can't recall the others but it's probably best I don't know since I try to avoid eating fried foods but French fries are a weakness). Cooked to perfection, they're soft inside and crunchy outside. An order is $4, and if you're the only person at the table who orders the Juicy Lucy better get an extra order of fries because your dining companions will all want to taste one, then another, and soon they'll vanish.

For dessert we opted for milk chocolate, peanut, burnt banana ice cream ($7). Chef Blais says they wood-fire the banana and burn it, skin and all. Surprisingly, the banana flavor is quite mild.

Photo Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

During the media opening of HD1, the hot dog (haute dawg) restaurant where Chef Blais is a consultant but not the executive chef helming daily operations, I asked Chef Blais about his plans for The Spence. He said that he fully intended to get back in the kitchen, roll up his sleeves and cook, and stay put. Let's hope that's still the plan.

Insider's Tip: If you like wine and are feeling adventurous, allow sommelier Justin Amick to choose wine pairings for your meal. Sit back and savor each surprise.

Bottom Line: A creative home for Chef Blais, a treat for Atlanta diners. The Spence offers a nice mix of "way out there" cuts of meat and familiar ingredients, small plates and more generous servings, dishes to satisfy both the adventurous foodie and conservative eater, and all at a range of prices that parents or college students might reasonably afford.